|
The Arctic has no inhabitant, more majestic than the polar bear; one of the largest mammals in the world. Polar bears are elusive, solitary creatures, living most of the year on the vast Arctic ice fields, inaccessible to almost everyone except Inuit hunters, knowledgeable enough to venture into the fields.
For a short period each year, however, polar bears gather in number where the Churchill River empties into Hudson Bay. Depending on the year's climate, the bears appear from late September through November, the males pacing the coastline waiting for freeze-up, the females denning to birth their young.
Churchill, Manitoba, did not start out as "the Polar Bear Capital of the World." So rich was the early fur trade in the area, the Hudson's Bay Company established a post there as early as 1685. As well as for polar bear hides, trade was brisk in arctic and red foxes, walrus tusks, caribou hides, and some bird feathers. Today the area continues to be a major seasonal migratory route for arctic and subarctic wildlife.
As the railroad reached out east to west across the breadth of Canada, in Manitoba it also reached northward from Winnipeg to Churchill. At Churchill was a natural deep seaport perfect for export of Canada's prairie grain. Shipment out of Churchill was much more economical than from the head of the Great Lakes; the distance was shorter to most destination ports and need for trans-shipment en route much lessened, mindful that the St. Lawrence Seaway had not yet been opened to the Great Lakes.
No one in Churchill much thought about polar bears, nor even of tourism. The bears were something of a nuisance, occasionally wandering close to town to rummage in the landfill. Locals knew better than to get too close. Mindful of strangers coming to their town, locals did post signs: "WARNING: Beware of Polar Bears on the Streets."
Like most bears, their size and bulkiness belies their speed and agility. An adult male polar bear can weigh as much as 1500 pounds. Polar bears, however, are unique because they do not hibernate. They have the ability to turn down their systems, sometimes called "walking hibernation", when food is scarce, as it is while they wait for the ice, and turn up their systems when food is more available. This makes bear watching in the Churchill area so attractive, easier and safer.
A few years ago, Churchill and the shores of northeastern Hudson Bay began attracting naturalists and others wishing to study polar bear habits. Enterprising local people began developing services to accommodate visitors. Formerly just a pesky presence at the dump, the bears became an economic asset, especially in October and November.
Just southeast of Churchill, facing Hudson Bay, a prime polar bear habitat was designated as Wapusk National Park. Hotels, tours, and other services are now in place for tourists. Churchill is now also a regular port of call for arctic cruise ships from June to October.
Along with a variety of eco-tours — polar bear watching, beluga whale watching, bird treks, flora excursions; outfitters now provide access to sport fishing, not only in the Churchill River estuary and the big river itself, but in many of the smaller rivers, tributaries, and lakes in the area. Arctic char, grayling, and lake trout are favorites for fishermen who don't mind roughing it at overnight fly-in sites.
More recently, another, somewhat ominous, attraction has for some years been added to bear watching. Perhaps attributable to global warming, resource people have been finding air lifting of bears out to the ice necessary because freeze up is coming later and, given the timing, bears are in danger of starvation.
Polar bears rely on seals as the staple in their diet. While excellent swimmers and divers – a polar bear can easily swim fifty miles non-stop; bears catch their seals on the ice when the seals surface to breathe. The air lifts involve darting the bears, then taking them slung below helicopters out to the ice fields where they are released.
There is no road to Churchill. The town's 1200 permanent residents are served primarily by rail and air. Given its isolation, visits should be booked well ahead. Although the town has a range of hotels and bed and breakfasts, it not only attracts tourists but also travellers going further north. Add to that, sometimes a blizzard can periodically skew reservations. One's visit might be longer than planned, but, not to worry, even when snowbound, Churchill has attractions.
|
| |
