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Perhaps no other piece of menswear has been so misunderstood and maligned as the innocent-looking bow tie. Unlike its sleek and trim cousin
the neck tie, the bow tie still remains a renegade in some fashion circles. Perhaps due to its connection with traveling salesmen of old, the bow tie has been cast as untrustworthy and a little seedy. People have been urged not to trust a man who wears a bow tie.
But surely in these more enlightened times, the bow tie controversy has become little more than a myth, right? Well, yes and no. The latest consensus on the bow tie seems to be that it can smooth out the rough edges of the man who wears it. Others now view the bow tie as a tribute to rugged individualism- the ultimate in 'power' accessories. A bow tie seems to imply a certain stubborness in the wearer, but also a definite preference for individuality and personal expression. Of course, the highest form of flattery continues to be the bow tie associated with the ne plus ultra of status symbol clothing- the black tuxedo.
But how does one go about tying one of these controversial pieces of neckwear? From all accounts, very slowly and deliberately. Unlike the relative give and take of the semi and full Windsor knot, the bow tie must be tied very closely to the neck in order to fit properly. A general rule of thumb is that bow ties must never be perfectly tied, because part of the tie's mystique lies in its casual status. But unless you earn a living as a waiter or musician, avoid clip-on bowties at all costs. If a clippie start to slip, your best bet is to remove it entirely and hide it in a pocket.
So here's the best approximation of a step by step guide to tying a proper bow tie. It is an amalgamation of several different expert opinions, so your results may vary. The important thing is to practice tying a bow tie long before any event that requires one. Some experts suggest practicing your tying techniques on a knee, while others discourage the use of a mirror until the final product is ready for inspection.
STEPS FOR TYING A TRADITIONAL BOW TIE
1. Make sure your dress shirt fits well before adding the tie. Especially check for a proper fit around the neck, because the bow tie will be fitted snugly. Once you have established a proper fit, lift up the collar and keep it up.
2. If you can adjust the tie's length, make sure it fits your particular neck size. You want some overhang, but not too much. A short tie simply won't do.
3. Place the tie around your neck and allow both ends to hang down in front. One end should hang down at least 1 1/2" further than the other. This shall be referred to as the 'long end' in future steps. Many times a bow tie will have two different tones, so you may also remember which color is the longer end.
4. Your first tie will be similar to the first tie of a shoelace. Bring the long end across the short end, then behind and over, ending with the long piece on the opposite side of its starting position, at the end of a half knot. Draw this knot snugly to your neckline.
5. Your next loop involves the short end. At the point where the hourglass shape just begins to narrow (the round bulge in the middle of the tie end), form a bow shape by folding the end piece on an imaginary center line. This is one of the awkward moments in bow tying, but a little practice will help. Take your short end with the bow on the outside and hold it up close to the neckline, in a horizontal direction. (Imagine the finished direction of your bow tie and hold it just like that).
6. While holding the position of the short end bow steady, take the long end over the center of the short end bow. (This maneuver should form the center of the finished project, and provides contrast if the ends are different in color). Hold both the bow formed by the short end and the new center stripe firmly in one hand, maintaining its position on the neckline.
7. Much like the first bow you created with the short end, fold the long end at the point where the hourglass begins to narrow. This will form a second bow. It will currently be hanging perpendicular and below the first bow.
8. Here's the trickiest part for most people, so be prepared. Take the second bow and bring it behind the first bow. You should find a space for it directly behind the center loop you formed with the longer end.
9. Tuck your second bow in the space behind the first bow and pull it until it is approximately even with the first bow. In essence, you are tightening the center knot around both bows as you feed the second bow behind the first. This will appear more obvious in practice than in any description.
10. Finally, adjust both bows against the neckline for tightness and neatness. If done perfectly, several dimples may appear. Some bow tie enthusiasts have noted a tendency for the tie to unravel slowly in a counterclockwise direction as it is worn. You may need to make a few minor adjustments as the evening wears on, but the rules for bow ties allow for a bit more 'sloppiness'.
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