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The German wine industry is currently undergoing a major transformation. There is a united determination amongst the regions’ wine growers to shake off, once and for all, their poor reputation for producing cheap, sickly, and white wines.
The truth of the matter is, that Germany has always produced some superb quality white wines – some of the best in the world. These wines, at the top end of the market, have refinement, elegance, and the ability to mature, for decades. Unfortunately, these wines have always been overshadowed by the mass of poor quality wines that have, up until recently, also been synonymous with Germany’s wine trade.
German wine growers are now focusing on a revival of the more traditional high-quality grape varieties, that used to dominate the industry, before Müller-Thurgau took over. Many of the best producers are openly rejecting the country’s legal requirements, in order to produce better quality wine and to give themselves greater flexibility on the world wine market. There has also, during the past five or six years, been much discussion as to whether the country’s top tier vineyards should reclassify, along similar lines to the existing Grand Cru system of Alsace and Burgundy. Consequently, the German classification system, today, is in a state of flux. It is seeking new directions. Unofficial classifications abound and are being implemented, gradually, by leading producers throughout the country.
Grape Varieties:
Approximately fifty different grape varieties are grown in German vineyards, but many of them are new or experimental. According to German law, the grape variety does not have to appear on the label, but when it does, it guarantees that at least 85% of the wine has to be produced from that grape.
Only, very recently, has the Müller-Thurgau finally been deposed by the noble Riesling grape. Riesling is now Germany’s most widely planted variety – a clear indication that the revival of the German wine industry is on course. Nowadays, the Müller-Thurgau grape, (sometimes referred to as Rivaner), is being uprooted in vineyards across the regions and being replaced by the Riesling grape. More Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay grapes have also been planted in the last three or four years, in an attempt to compete directly with New World countries.
Main white grape varieties:
Riesling:
Riesling is undoubtedly the classic, quality leader, producing Germany’s finest wines that are well-balanced, elegant and full-flavoured. Its characteristic flavour is tangy, grapy appley, and flowery. Sometimes, it is also peachy and even smoky, when young. Rieslings usually a hint of sweetness, that perfectly balances the grape’s high acidity.
Müller-Thurgau (Rivaner):
A cross between the Riesling and Silvaner grapes, this undistinguished hybrid is still a major grape throughout German vineyards. It produces mildly acetic, fruity wines with a vaguely flowery bouquet.
Silvaner (Sylvaner):
Silvaner produces wines that are dry, neutral and reliable. Occasionally, they can be full-bodied and slightly earthy flavoured. Silvaners are best drunk in their youth.
Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder or Ruländer):
This grape variety produces characterful, spicy, dry whites and luscious, sweet dessert wines.
Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder):
Introduced from across the border in Alsace, this grape is capable of producing nutty flavoured, full-bodied wines.
Gewürztraminer:
Although not as impressive as the Alsace Gewürztraminer, this German variety produces some pleasant floral-scented wines of reasonable quality.
Main red grape varieties:
Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder):
Increasingly planted, nowadays, it is capable of producing supple, silky, cherry fruit- flavoured reds, often with a hint of spice.
Trollinger (Blauer Malvasier):
The quality of the wine made from this fruity red grape is improving year by year and styles are becoming fuller and better balanced.
Main Wine Regions:
Germany has thirteen designated quality wine producing regions: Ahr, Mittelrhein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Nahe, Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Rheingau, Hessiche, Bergstrasse, Franken, Baden, Würtemberg, Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen. (The last two regions are located in what was formerly East Germany).
These regions are divided into sub-regions called “Bereiche”, which are further divided into approximately 150 “Grosslagen”, or groups of vineyards.
Climate and Terroir:
Germany is the most northerly country in which grapes can thrive. Nearly 80% of the regions’ vineyards are located on hilly slopes, which means that mechanical harvesting is out of the question. Climate and soil vary considerably from north to south. There is also a big difference in climate from west to east. The more easterly regions have a significantly more continental climate – a climate of extremes – than those in the west.
ine Styles:
Styles vary greatly from region to region, largely dependent upon climate and soil. Around 80% of German wines are white. The main styles are:
·White wine.
·Sparkling white wine (“Sekt”)
·Rosé wine (“Schillerwein” or “Weissherbst”, the latter is made from black grapes only)
·“Rotling” wine made from a combination of white and black grapes
·Red wine
Although often marketed under a proprietary brand label, many German wines are identified by their region, district or vineyard and by the degree of grape ripeness at harvest time. Sometimes, if the grapes have failed to ripen fully, cane or beet sugar is added to the unfermented must. This raises the alcohol level, during fermentation, to a similar level of wines from a good vintage. This practice is called “Verbesserung” (“Chaptalisation”). The top tier of German wines, by law, may not be improved in this manner.
The German wine classification system:
Deutscher Tafelwein – basic table wine, made only from German-grown grapes.
Deutscher Landwein – regional wine, superior to Tafelwein, made from grapes in any one of the designated Landwein regions.
Qualitätswein Bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) – quality wine from designated regions, usually made from fully ripe grapes, but as with Deutscher Tafelwein and Deutscher Landwein, the grape juice is frequently improved through chapitalisation.
Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP) – quality wine with distinction. These are completely natural wines made from fully ripe and overripe grapes. In ascending levels of ripeness and quality, QmP wines are further divided into six categories: “Kabinett”, “Spätlese”, “Auslese”, “Beerenauslese”, “Trockenbeerenauslese” and finally “Eiswein”, a very rare, sweet, concentrated wine produced from frozen grapes, left on the vine.
The German wine industry, today, is fighting back and winning. The bland, sweet flavours of Liebfraumilch are fast becoming a thing of the past. German wine producers are competing successfully, particularly at the lower end of the market, with wine styles and flavours that appeal to the international palate.
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